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2020 Pre-Conference Tour Fun and Fascinating
10 members of the teaching corps spent an engaging day exploring a bit of the Guatemala less traveled and learning about Mayan culture as expressed through the Kaqchikel traditions of the town of San Antonio Aguas Calientes, known for its very sophisticated style of weaving. We had a traditional breakfast, found the bus terminal and boarded one of the colorful “camionetas”, also known as chicken buses, for a short ride to Aguas Calientes, where we debarked at the door of Mañanas y Tardes Mayas. This is an operation run by 5 women who are working to preserve Kaqchikel culture, especially through maintaining the weaving traditions by teaching children and young people in their community. We were warmly received by Lilian and Gloria, who were waiting for us at the street. With eloquence and humor, and translation from Jane Snyder, they led us through the intricacies and serious work of finely detailed backstrap loom weaving, after which we were encouraged to try our own hand at it. Not as easy as it looks. Then they put us through the traditional marriage process, educating us cheerfully about the intricacies of social bonds and requirements and allowing us to dress up and take the parts of various family members. Much fun was had by all, in addition to some serious thoughts about traditions, roles of men and women, and more. As a grand finale, we were able to try our hand at making tortillas, also harder than it looks, and then to feast on the traditional dish of pepián, and our own or their well made tortillas, plus local coffee freshly ground with the stone metate. Altogether a wonderful, connecting experience. The ladies really appreciate our coming, as our fees and purchases of their beautiful arts help them continue their work. Their sincere gratitude when we leave is touching. The bus rides are always interesting, although there were no chickens to share the ride on this day.
This tour give arriving teachers an opportunity to acclimate and settle in before the busy days of teaching begin, and was much appreciated by them. See a photo display below; and below that the report on the ESL week itself.
Teaching English Experience 2020
This year, with over 60 participants (30 students, 30 teachers, and a few in supporting roles), was by far the biggest event yet. By informal polling of experienced teachers and the progress of the students, it was also the best yet. The improvements made in the curriculum plus the supporting materials and activities provided by Fred and Jane and Ann have really made for a fun and productive week. Apprehensions about teaching and learning faded rapidly as we plunged into one on one teaching in the beautiful gardens of Belén, fun and supportive small group sessions, and a plethora of morning and evening whole group events including mask-making, learning about Mayan Spirituality, song and dance, morning exercises in at least a half a dozen languages, and much, much more.
Note that you can enlarge these images by clicking on them.
2020 Teaching English Experience
A real highlight was an afternoon visit to the home of one of our students, Nora Sabán Car, who is studying Social Work. Nora’s mother, Cristina, gave us a very moving talk about her life. After being offered a scholarship to attend school in the US which her family refused, she fell madly in love as a young woman and married a man who later turned to alcohol and severe domestic violence; she thinks in part due to early childhood trauma during the times of violence and civil war. She very courageously, and not without tears, took us through the depths of this time of severe abuse, depression and hopelessness, her decision to escape despite lack of support from family, and her “salvation” through immersion in working for women’s rights. She was nearly able to complete studies for a law degree, but felt that her children must have priority and sadly gave it up, although she treasures what she learned about the realities of law and legal rights. She concluded with the news that she has recently been chosen as a member of a national commission for Indigenous Women, and showed us the tradition Mayan ceremonial staff that goes with the position. It brought tears to my eyes. This discourse was only in part aimed at the visiting North Americans. It was also the opening of a door for many of our students who have been touched in one way or another by similar experiences. Several of our students are single mothers and they each came up to her afterwards for some personal words and embraces and tears. It was very moving and important. One hopes it had a positive effect on our young men as well.
On the same afternoon we visited the PROGRESA office and had a chance to see the new mural, designed and executed by Juanjo Guillén, one of our students who is an artist. He explained to us the symbolism and allegory of the design. This is a wonderful two way project which provides PROGRESA with a new symbol and beautification of the garden; and provides Juanjo with a major addition to his portfolio which we expect will be helpful as he pursues employment after graduation. He hopes to find academic work in Art History.
Other afternoons we visited various sites in the lovely little city of Antigua Guatemala, the old colonial capital filled with ruins and historic buildings and museums, in pairs with our students, or in small to medium sized groups. Sites included an organic farm outside of town, the old Capuchina Convent with its remarkable architecture, museums about coffee, indigenous music, chocolate, jade, art, the park with a Cross overlooking the town, and much more. These activities may help with English progress, but also serve admirably to build community among us on all levels. We also enjoyed a lovely Quaker Meeting for Worship under the trees in the garden. This seems to be becoming a treasured tradition, along with a Jewish Shabat that came later. Multicultural and interfaith we are.
The week always ends with a glorious graduation ceremony put on by the students. This was the most extraordinary of all. Originally, Miguel and the staff designed the program, but the students have been taking more and more initiative. This year it was almost entirely student run and even the PROGRESA staff were surprised by some of the performances that showed up. The mask-making protect earlier in the week turned into a reenactment of the Mayan creation/cosmovision story from the Popol Vuh, for example. What started as an experiment in bringing North Americans and Guatemalan students together over a decade ago has become a treasured event in the life of PROGRESA. Lifelong relationships are made and life changing growth happens in this brief but intense time we spend together as teachers, students, teachers and students together, teachers together, students together; and their remains the question: Which of us is really the teacher? Many, many thanks, matyox, chjonte, tantix, jalé aweh (all ways to say thank you in various Mayan languages) to Martha Dugan for starting it all.
Photos below.
Student Conference 2019
We just completed another wonderful student conference. There were about 70 of our current scholarship recipients in attendance, plus 10 alumni/ae. Students travel great distances and have other responsibilities to work around as well, so some came late and others left early, but it was a great blessing to meet each one, no matter how briefly. It is also clearly a blessing to the students. As the Progresa Family ties deepen, they greet and depart from each other with more and more intense connections. The conference is organized as a good mix of entertaining activities that build relationships and community, and more serious workshops. In light of the upcoming elections in Guatemala, the first of these was an exploration of the political nature of all parts of our lives, presented by a group that included Karina Sic, a graduate of Progresa and former member of our staff. The second was a presentation/exercise on “How to be your own best teacher” run by Fred Dobb, one of the Progresa board members, and an exuberant team of graduates and current students. The Progresa staff worked very hard to make this the success that it was. There is so much joy and life in this conference and these young people. I hope you can appreciate some of it by looking at the photos below.
Joe Snyder
ESL 2019 Pre-Conference Tour
Just before we began a week of teaching English to 21 of our Progresa scholarship recipients, a group of us had an introduction to life and culture in an indigenous Mayan town, under the care of veteran ESL participants, Jane and Joe Snyder. We began with the typical Guatemalan breakfast in a local restaurant, replete with fresh hot tortillas and fresh subtropical fruit. From there we proceeded along the edge of the public market to the Antigua bus terminal, where we found a boarded the brightly painted camioneta (sometimes known as “chicken bus”) for San Antonio Aguas Calientes. Settling into our 4th grader sized bus seats, we watched the countryside unfold as the bus pulled down the highway and turned off on secondary roads, where people boarded and descended going about their daily business.
We descended the steep hill into Aguas Calientes, known for probably the most technically advanced and highest quality traditional weaving in Guatemala. We stopped, as directed, at the third tumulo (serious speed bump) to find Mañanas y Tardes Mayas, a small establishment run by 5 traditionally minded women dedicated to preserving and encouraging traditional weaving as well as other cultural practices, including use of the K’aqchiqel language. This important work is sustained by groups like us who pay a small fee for a gracious and informative introduction into their world. Jane, with her technical knowledge of fabrics and weaving, provided excellent translation for us, and helped deepen the bonds with our hosts, who sensed a kindred spirit. We learned a lot about weaving, including a chance to kneel at the loom ourselves for a few passes, the kinds of garments produced, and how they are culturally significant, the last by participating in a simulated K’akchiqel Maya wedding, replete with incense, music and dancing. We also had the chance to examine and purchase some of the spectacularly colorful and beautiful textiles and garments they produce. Finally, we were treated to a simple meal of pepián de pollo, a lovely subtly seasoned soup/stew that is a tradition in this part of Mayan Guatemala, along with fresh coffee and tortillas, which we got to try our hand at creating; not as easy as it looks. The deep and sincere gratitude that Lilián and Gloria, our primary hosts, expressed to us for our support of their projects as we departed was touching and heartwarming and disarmed any anxiety we had about being tourists. We hope to see them again next year.
We walked down to the bottom of the hill to catch the bus back to Antigua. While waiting we discovered that the ATM was out of money, having been drained over the New Year and not yet refilled. Another typical Guatemalan experience. On the way back, we did, indeed, share the bus with a chicken or two.
ESL Post-Conference Tour
After the week of teaching, 11 of the teachers, one of our board members and a friend went on a tour of the Western Highlands led by our director, Miguel Costop. The tour commenced with a visit to the Mayan ruins of Iximché, near Tecpán Guatemala. Ichimché was the capital of the Kaqchiquel kingdom at the time of the Spanish conquest. While there, tour members witnessed Mayan religious ceremonies taking place at altars at the back of the site. Later they visited the home of Naty (Natividad) Cojtí, one of our Progresa students, where they met 4 generations of her family and, in typical Guatemalan style, a 15 minute visit turned into a 2 hour party.
CHurch at san andrés Xecul
From there the group moved on to Quetzaltenango, more properly known locally by its Mayan name, Xela or Xelajú, where they reconnected briefly with two other ESL teachers. On the way they visited two of the most interesting churches in Guatemala, the elaborate yellow church of San Andrés Xecul and the most ancient church in the country in Salcajá. Events in Xela included a private tour through the Ixkik' Museum, a remarkable museum of traditional Mayan culture expressed through weaving and textile arts. It is the work of four indigenous Mayan women dedicated to defending and preserving the culture of their people. Later the tour passed through the lush Almolonga valley with its vegetable farms on route to the Georginas Hot Springs for a relaxing warm soak at the edge of the forest.
Procession in Chichi
The tour arrived at Chichicastenango the night before market day. This is one of the most famous markets in Guatemala, full or authentic (and not so authentic) Mayan artisanship. Unexpectedly, the tour was greeted by a procession through the streets of the Cofradía (religious brotherhood) carrying the images of Saints through town and into the church, replete with music, clouds of incense, and loud fireworks. Several members were also able to experience a mass at the Mayan influenced church of Santo Tomás.
Lake Atitlan
From Chichi, the tour proceeded to the spectacularly beautiful Lake of Atitlán, truly one of the wonders of the word: a huge deep blue jewel set in an enormous caldera with several large volcanoes around its edges. Members visited the towns of Panajachel, Santiago, and San Pedro around the edges of the lake, traveling by boat from town to town. In Santiago they were able to meet with another Progresa student, Concepción Chicajau, a nursing student, who gave them a tour of the town by open pickup, including a visit to her very small and simple house, where she shared the story of her life, including the tragic loss of her brother which motivated her desire for a career in health and medicine. Hearts were deeply touched. Around the Lake there were many more opportunities to explore markets with indigenous artisanal work, including a very successful weaving cooperative which has grown over 30 years from 17 war widows to 191 members. Near Panajachel, the group visited a Nature Reserve replete with suspension bridges between trees, waterfalls, and not so wild animals.
The trip culminated with a night to rest and relax in Antigua Guatemala, before members began to turn their eyes toward home. A good and educational time was had by all. Many thanks to Donna Smith and Miguel Costop for their work and dedication to make the tour possible.
ESL-Teaching English- Tour 2018
The Entire Group
This year's ESL tour was another happy success. With 22 students and 22 teachers, it was the largest to date. Apprehensions by first time teachers quickly evaporated in the warm environment of the Posada Belén and the enthusiasm of the students. A number of the teachers were able to take part in a short tour the day before the main event started. We were able to visit a weaving cooperative in the nearby town of San Antonio Aguas Calientes, famous for tradition weaving with brilliant color and design, and a unique weaving technique used nowhere else in Guatemala. Lilian, one of the women in the cooperative, gave us a charming lesson in the history of weaving and its place in Mayan culture, emphasizing the desire of these women to preserve this culture and be sure that it is passed on to the coming generations. The simple backstrap loom is more complicated than it looks, as we learned by trial. We also got to dress up and participate in an imaginary wedding, with much light hearted laughter, in addition to a traditional light lunch of pepián and tortillas fresh from the comal.
The week of teaching itself was a delight. Our students continue to grow and take more and more initiative. We find that they continue to grow in their command of written English, which is now required in Guatemalan studies, but inadequately taught. The opportunity to hear English spoken and to speak it themselves in a supportive environment is very important to them. As always, we had fun exploring Antigua together in small groups. Every year someone discovers something new and interesting in this charming little city.
Cristina and Nora Veronica
Our usual trip to visit a student's family took us to the small home of Nora Veronica Saban Car, presided over by her mother Cristina. Cristina is survivor of severe domestic violence who was able to escape and rebuild her life, working long hours to build a better life for her children. She has dedicated her life to bettering the estate of women in Guatemala, but had to sacrifice a hoped for career in law to be able to maintain the family. She grows corn and beans to feed them, taught herself to crochet in order to raise a little extra money, keeps a few chickens, and works at her job in social services. Her tiny garden is full of exotic and beautiful plants which she has collected and tended. Despite all this, she greeted us with the sweetest smile and warmest heart one could ever find; feeding us watermelon and little guisquiles that taste something like artichoke. Nora Veronica is working on degree in social work, following in her Mamá's footsteps. These are the kind of events and experiences that keep our hearts engaged in this program.
Byron
Another highlight involved our student Byron Anibal Joj. Byron just joined the program last year to complete a course in nursing. He lives in a pretty remote town in Totonicapán with his widowed mother and his wife and two little girls. Sadly, due to the economic state here, he has been unable to find professional work and has been working in a shop making pants. One morning he was absent from the program, and we learned he had left very early in the morning to take the bus to Xela for an interview for a potential nursing job at a new hospital for which there were many applicants. We were anxious all morning as to whether he got to Xela on time (3 hour + trip). He was able to rejoin us in the afternoon on the way to Nora Veronica's house. We first learned that the interview had gone well, and then found out to our delight that he had actually been hired and would start work as a surgical nurse in two weeks, in a place to which he can commute from his home. He is a happy and proud young man. We, too, are happy and grateful when we have such success stories. Byron has some hope that he may be able to go back for an advanced nursing degree in a few years.
The week concluded with a graduation ceremony, which is always rewarding and heart touching for us teachers. Every year they take more initiative in planning and executing this event. This year a symbolic Mayan ceremony was added with a nice introduction in English by Karina Sic, a recent graduate in social work who now works in the Progresa office. We were also treated to and participated in a traditional dance from Santa Eulalia, Huehuetenango, led by our student Hermelinda Miguel Nicolás who comes from that town. We departed with hugs and good wishes, perhaps even a few tears. We have new friends and renewed hope for the future of this beautiful and damaged country, and through that hope for the whole world. To learn more about this amazing Teaching English Experience click here.
Exbecarios (former students) Newsletter
Read our first 100% digital newsletter (in Spanish) for our former students. Just click on the following link to read it: https://madmagz.com/magazine/1108446
Student Conference 2017
The 2017 Student Conference was a great success. About 60 students and graduates attended. A more detailed description my be read in the spring newsletter, which should appear soon in the column to the right. The theme of the conference was Immigration, built on viewing of the film "La Bestia" and a detailed presentation by Luis Arena, a Guatemalan expert on the subject. Attenders found the information useful, thought provoking, and timely. We also had a useful presentation on nutrition by one of our current medical students, Herberth Beb. As always, one of the most important aspects of the conference is the building of community and networks amongst the becarios (scholarship recipients). This was greatly enhanced by concurrent workshops on theater, dance, or visual art, each led by young Guatemalan artists; notably our own Aurelio Rodríguez in the visual arts. It was a delight to see these events start off with a lot of nervous laughter and some reticence, and end with joyful cooperative production. We expect these bonds to grow into a network of committed, impassioned Guatemalans whose presence and work will make a Guatemala where migration is less of an issue. There was much joy and laughter in the evening of community presentations, singing, dancing, theater, games, and more. For the Quakers among you, we had a grand Meeting for Worship under the trees on first day morning, attended by many of the becarios, although it was not a required activity. We are filled with hope for this great program and for these inspiring students dedicated to making their lives, their country and the world better.
Here are some photos and video links to help you get an idea of the event:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX_OaDUskDY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejfHa0EuCfs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwmAQp1rhrU
Teaching English Experience 2017
The 2017 Teaching English Experience included 19 students and volunteer teachers, who came from all parts of Guatemala and the USA respectively. Many were first time attenders, eager to learn and teach. We were pleased with the progress many of the returning students have made since the last event. Everybody loved working in the charming garden of the historic Belén (Bethlehem) Convent where Guatemala's own Saint, Hermano Pedro, healed and comforted many of the poorest of his day. Exploration of historic Antigua and its surrounding provided new adventures for all, from museums of history and art to explorations of forests to watching a traditional religious festival. New friendships were made and old friendships renewed among and between teachers and students alike. This has proved to be more than just a short English lesson. The opportunity for students, many from quite isolated areas, to meet others from different areas of Guatemala and with different areas of expertise has been an important community and network building opportunity. Embedded above are videos from two students and a teacher. Be sure to click on the subtitles button for Yessenia and Lupita's videos if you are not a Spanish speaker. To learn more about the Teaching English Experience click here.
Junior Friends Guatemala Service Trip, 2016
The second North Pacific Yearly Meeting Junior Friends Service Trip took place from 8/5 to 8/16, 2016, with 10 Junior (high school age) Friends and three adult advisors. The project was expertly planned and carried out by Miguel Costop and the rest of the Progresa staff. A visit to the ancient Mayan city of Iximché, capital of the Kaqchikel Kingdom at the time of the Spanish Conquest opened the experience. Miguel's friend, Angelina Sacbajá, a midwife and Mayan Spiritual Guide, led us through a Mayan Ceremony in a park near Iximché. After explaining the Mayan principles and practices, she conducted the ceremony entirely in Kaqchikel. We were struck by the similarities between Mayan Spiritual Principles and those of the Religious Society of Friends.
With this promising start, we moved on to the aldeas (small villages) surrounding San José Poaquil, where we worked on reforestation, planting a number of several varieties of trees; and worked teaching English to high schools students at a lovely school that values the conservation of Mayan language and tradition. It was hard work at times, but there was much satisfaction at the end of the day. The high point of this sector and of the trip as a whole occurred here. Each of us had the privilege of spending a day and a night with one of the families of our students or ex-students. Traveling by camioneta ("chicken bus") or tuk tuk, we fanned out to various places for an experience of life on a much simpler and poorer basis than that to which we are accustomed. The depth of love and hospitality we experienced more than made up for any lack of creature comforts, and friendships and connections were made that may endure. Many Junior Friends have shared afterwards that this experience was not only the high point of their trip, but that it changed their outlook on the world and the importance of possessions.
From Poaquil we went to Xela (Quetzaltenango) with a brief stop at the remarkable open market at Chichicastenango. These few days, povided different experience and a chance to experience a larger city, the second largest in Guatemala. Here we traveled to the smaller town of Momostenango where Gaby López, one of our current scholarship students studying forestry, led us on a clean up work party to a beautiful waterfall and hot springs polluted by mountains of trash. Her family treated us to a lovely lunch afterwards after which the JFs cleared a small piece of land (with machetes, which caused some anxiety on the part of the elders) to add to their organic garden of native and medicinal plants. We also treated ourselves to a day exploring some of the villages around Xela, but mostly luxuriating in the large hot spring of Fuentes Georginas. On our way out of town, we again met Gaby, who took us to visit her friends Thelma and Luís, who are the owners and operators of a 4th generation operation hand spinning, natural dying and weaving wool into beautiful blankets and rugs. And, of course, no visit to this region would be complete without a side trip to the unique yellow church of San Andrés Xecul, one of the wonders of the Mayan World.
We finished our trip with a visit to the home of one of our students in San Pedro la Laguna, on the spectacular Lake of Atitlán, and his very charismatic grandfather, a sculptor in stone. The lake is very large and set in a huge caldera surrounded by several volcanic peaks. Antigua Guatemala was our last stop, and lovely city with much of the Spanish Colonial flavor and many ruins from the early days of the Spanish occupation. All returned in one piece, tired, but with experiences to change a life, not to mention lives changed for those of us who worked with and for them. If any are interested in arranging such a trip for another group of young Friends, you may contact Progresa through this website or at progresa3@gmail.com . You may also contact Joe (josephhoytsnyder@gmail.com) or Jane (jmwsnyder@gmail.com) Snyder for ideas and details.
Junior Friends Guatemala Service Trip, 2014
From 8/8 to 8/19, 2014, twenty Junior Friends (high school age) from North Pacific Yearly Meeting traveled to Guatemala for a learning and service trip, organized superbly by the PROGRESA Guatemala Friends Scholarship Program. Our introduction to Guatemala was a visit to the ruins of Iximché, the capital city of the Kaqchikel Maya at the time of the Spanish Conquest. Included in this visit was participation in a Mayan spiritual ceremony explained and performed by a midwife and spiritual guide. This remarkable day culminated in a delicious dinner at the home Miguel Costop, director of PROGRESA and our guide throughout the trip.
After that dynamic start, we spent three days in the little town of Santa Cruz Balanyá, where a PROGRESA student was completing her internship with a well organized women's co-op. Mornings were devoted to a reforestation project where well over 2,000 trees were planted. During the afternoons we taught English at the local middle school. All this under the care and direction of members of a women's co-op who provided the seedlings and fed us generously and deliciously each midday. This segment culminated in an overnight home stay with a local family, the most dramatic experience of the journey for most of us. Deep friendships were made in this very short time.
After fond farewells, we traveled to Xela (Quetzaltenango) with a detour to visit the fascinating (and famous) weekly market at Chichicastenango and a brief visit to the intriguing yellow church in San Andrés Xecul where we were met by another PROGRESA student. In Xela we visited a school for street children or those at risk of becoming street children, founded by another PROGRESA scholarship recipient. There we did a deep cleaning of the school, played joyous futbol with students and staff, and worked on a piece of farmland neglected and damaged by climate change induced drought. The following day, we visited the nearby town of Momostenango where Gaby López, one of the current PROGRESA scholarship recipients, shared with us her passion for and concerns about forestry in her region, and showed us a section of forest ravaged by the pine bark beetle inadvertently imported from Canada by local furniture makers. After visiting a nearby 5th generation family hand weaving operation producing some of the woolen blankets and carpets for which Momos is famous, we were treated to lunch at Gaby's house in a compound set up for families traumatized by the violence of Guatemala's 36 years of civil war. Her family fled to Mexico in the face of extreme violence to her grandfather and uncles and were repatriated in this area where 5 families are working together on organic plant production and preservation of plant species used for food and traditional medicine. We finished the day with a chance to see some local natural wonders, including a beautiful waterfall on a polluted and trash laden river. We couldn't clean up the river, but we at least (without any prompting from leaders) picked up all the trash from the trail leading to it.
From Xela we had a day of travel punctuated by a visit to the spectacularly beautiful Lake Atitlán with a boat ride from Panajachel to the pretty town of Santa Catarina Palopó. The last day, in Antigua Guatemala, was given to relaxation, preparations for travel home, and grateful worship. During our travels, we were able to meet several PROGRESA students or graduates, learn first hand about the hardships they face, and realize how important the program has been in overcoming them.
These are the descriptions in time and space. What is left out are the laughter and tears, exuberance and exhaustion, cooperation and community, deep places of worship and gratitude, and the transformative seeds that have been planted in many hearts.
We are all immensely grateful to the PROGRESA Guatemala Friends Scholarship Program and to Miguel Angel Costop Bala in particular. The dedication, local knowledge, connections with students, understanding of Quaker values, and the care and love shown created a truly life changing experience.
Joe Snyder
